English Idyll: February 2014

During a short break from teaching in the autumn, I went on a short trip to Wales. I stayed in Aberystwyth, on the Llyn, and met up with friends in Bangor. It was as majestic as ever. Aberystwyth is beyond doubt a special place, but more so because Kelsey and I stayed there on our very first tour of Wales, now many years ago, and because I have been reading - it pains me to admit it - Malcolm Pryce lately.

I am including a tediously long account, based on an email I sent to a friend. Just scroll down for the pictures...

As I was saying, Aberystwyth is a class act. Just simply getting there was delightful. Once you are past the dull middle of England and Shrewsbury, the drive is just very nice, if you like driving. The area happened to be hosting the World Rally Championship, so my imagination ran wild. Aberystwyth had a nice onshore wind on arrival, brilliant sea action. And it seemed somehow busy, which is quite the feat. I was looking for that one special cafe where Kelsey and I hung out, but couldn't find it. Went instead to the Varsity bar, where Kelsey and I had also hung out. It was a bit empty, but hey, and they had a long bank of taps. They were out of the Aspall cider I asked for, out of the Brains Black that I asked for, and out of something else. At that stage the girl revealed that most of their taps weren't working. No worries, I still got a drink. Then I decided to eat there, as I wanted a quick and early night. They were out of the gammon, out of the chicken, and then the girl revealed that their oven wasn't working and the only meat I could have were the ribs. I did wonder how they make them without an oven, but they are professionals, after all, so they must have their methods. The ribs were good, but came with a cole-slaw covered in a salad dressing no salad should be forced to wear. Still, it was lots of fun.

Next day, I took the train to Machynlleth. Good luck to anyone not fluent in Welsh names trying not to sound stupid when they purchase the train ticket. Just when I was done with that and thought the embarrassment was over, I had to board with my bike, and because of how you store the bike, people asked me again where I was getting off... M___ was nice, I got some nice books from an antique shop. Like many other places, it was sending mixed messages about being open v. shut. The sign said open, and the time was right, but there just were no other 'signs'. Door was unlocked, so I walk in, and then a dog starts barking and I hear heavy footsteps above my head. Anyway, nice books. Went for a late breakfast in M___. I liked the simplicity. I said I wanted breakfast and a coffee, and that's what I got, no questions asked. Lucky there were no vegans present. Just for kicks, the lady actually asked (okay, one question) if I wanted white bread or brown. I had to double-check if I heard right, but I had, so in order to live longer I ordered brown. Obviously, I wouldn't be writing this if I had actually gotten the brown bread. The coffee was mostly milk, which is good for your bones. Be that as it may, I cycled back to Aberystwyth, and it was great. In the afternoon, I went to visit the university, a bit scattered (the university), but interesting. Had some food there - they gave me what I ordered. Later, following a recommendation from a student who was drinking Guinness on an early afternoon, I found a good pub. Real local place with nice people. There were faculty from the university in, I think Biologists, and it was hilarious, because they thought of their students exactly the same things that my work colleagues and I think of ours, and say so at the pub after a pint or two.

Earlier, I had gone to a Siop Y Pethe and acquired the latest Gwenan Gibbard album, cerdd dant singing, poetry with harp music, obviously, very calming. I also got Sion Jobbins' book, dealing with Welsh nationhood. I have a friend in Bangor who has taught me a lot about that, and incidentally, I was to find out later that the shop belongs to that friend's friend's parents. Also, I don't think I am revealing too much when I say that her last name is Thomas. Her husband's last name is Jones. (I am not making this up.) So I thought she would have liked the petrol station where I was filling up next: they had on offer name stickers, and out of eight (I counted, anticipating I would be writing about this), three were Jones, and two Thomas.

Aberystwyth was really rather nice, I want to go there more often.

I then went to Morfa Nefyn on the Llyn, and cycled to Aberdaron, which was splendid. Had a drink at Ty Coch. And Wales beat Argentina on that day. Then I was on the road for a bit, visiting Plas Menai, Caernarfon, and eventually sweet, sweet Bangor. A lot has changed in the last few years, the university has grown and is tidied up. But somehow, the deep gray, apocalyptic charm remains. The view out of my window at the Menai was onto a row of gray-on-gray houses, with gardens full of gray junk, spread on gray pavement. You can see it below, although the picture flatters the real thing. There is something about every corner of that town, which just slowly says, 'ohhh crap'.

Great trip.